Ertach Kernow - St Cleer and its amazing range of historic monuments
St Cleer is perhaps one of those rural Cornish parishes seldom visited by those living further west in Cornwall. With some investigating a whole day can be spent there enjoying beautiful scenery, historic sites and a pub lunch. Lying north of Liskeard and skirting the edge of Bodmin Moor St Cleer is perhaps best known for its holy well in the centre of the largest settlement which gives its name to the parish.
From 1974 when Cornwall’s local government was reorganised into six districts sweeping away much of the boroughs, urban districts and rural districts, St Cleer was located in the Caradon district. Further reorganisation in 2009 saw the creation of a unitary authority under Cornwall Council. With a population of 1,147 the largest village in the parish is St Cleer, the remaining parish residents amounting to some 2,200 people spread out amongst various smaller hamlets and farming settlements. Now primarily a rural farming parish there was a time when the discovery of minerals nearby created a rush of people to the area. This led to the creation and expansion of existing hamlets at Tremar, Tremarcombe, Crows Nest and Common Moor and Darite, which was originally known as Railway Terrace. Today the population is relatively stable with no real increase in residential numbers over the past twenty years.
As always click the images for larger view
St Cleer has various moorland areas within the parish with designated names although part of the main expanse of Bodmin Moor. Within a section known as Craddock Moor on the southeastern side of Bodmin Moor lies a late Neolithic to early Bronze Age stone circle where all the stones are leaning or have fallen. Craddock Stone Circle is far less well-known than many of the other circles throughout Cornwall and although the stones have fallen it is relatively intact. It has seventeen surviving granite stones making up an almost perfect circle some 42 yards in diameter of what is thought to have contained twenty-seven stones. A fairly late discovery in 1923 it has not yet been excavated and lies within an area of extensive monuments and barrows. Early spring is the best time to visit as bracken growth makes finding it difficult later on towards the summer.
The most famous monuments including Trethevy Quoit, King Donierts Stone enclosure and St Cleer Holy Well and Cross have recently been covered in this series of articles and the work of the Cornwall Heritage Trust applauded. Lying just over the ecclesiastical border with Linkinhorne is the well-known Hurlers stone circle and nearby village of Minions along with the Cheesewring at Stowe’s Hill. Looking back in time these ancient sites were of great interest over hundreds of years to visitors coming to Cornwall. Back to the 16th century John Norden wrote about them and the coming of 19th century periodicals like the Illustrated London News included articles and engravings of them. The 1848 article suggests that the hole in the Trethevy cover stone may have been used to hold a flagpole. Writers of that time had no comprehension of the real timeline of human evolution and we can laugh now at their naive thought that Neolithic ancestors in Cornwall would be using flags. The area was popular with those interested in science and 120 members of the Royal Institution of Cornwall visited along with the British Association and others. Train journeys were carried out to see sights along to the Cheesewring, although not licensed for passengers who travelled at their own risk.
Besides the granite outcrops and moorland are some lovely and interesting water features including Sibleyback Reservoir completed in 1968 and holding up to three billion litres of water. Built around the same time as a number of other reservoirs in Cornwall all of these are now dwarfed by the much larger Colliford Reservoir completed in 1983. Cornwall’s reservoirs are now much more than infrastructure for supplying water with a host of other recreational facilities as part of the South West Lakes Trust who work with reservoir owners South West Water. The South West Lakes Trust is a charity which helps manage the reservoirs, enhancing the area for the benefit of the millions of people who visit these sites. They also help protect the local animals and birds that thrive on and around these lakes. Of course where there is water in such large quantities there are opportunities for fish and angling and Siblyback stocks brown, blue and rainbow trout in good numbers. There are camping facilities and for day visitors lots to do for all the family around the lake.
Golitha Falls is a popular place to visit on Bodmin Moor within St Cleer parish, where the River Fowey flows through Draynes Wood. The woodland varies from attractive wide glades to steep sided narrow gorges. With a drop of nearly 100 yards over a distance of 800 yards this creates an exciting fast flowing river tumbling through the rocks and forming lovely low cascading waterfalls. The whole area is within the Cornwall National Landscape and is a National Nature Reserve managed by English Nature. It stretches between the easterly Draynes Bridge and Treverbyn Bridge to the west. It is also designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest due to its varied flora especially mosses and lichens. Otters can be found here along with several varieties of smaller mammals and bats. Amongst the ancient woodland there are the occasional remains of historic buildings from Cornwall’s mining past. Best time to visit is following heavy rain when the river is awesome to see as it crashes through the valley. This is also reputedly the place where the Cornish King Dungarth met his end by drowning in 875 and not far from where his memorial, King Doniert’s Stone is located.
Bridges like Cornish stone walls are often overlooked. St Cleer has one of the oldest bridges in Cornwall and I must confess one of my favourites where I often stop to have some lunch. Treverbyn Bridge was rebuilt in 1412 and is now a Grade II* listed structure. The explanation for its designation is given as ‘an excellent survival of an early medieval bridge which retains the majority of its C15 fabric with little significant alteration; the different phases of construction are visible in the well-constructed structure.’ This small multi-arched bridge was widened in the 18th century and fortunately bypassed by a 20th century bridge and closed to traffic since 1929. It formed part of an ancient route between the historic towns of Bodmin and Liskeard. It was one of those structures that the church claimed credit for rebuilding as it provided indulgences for the work to be carried out.
The parish church of St Clarus stands in the centre of St Cleer not far from the holy well. This Grade I listed building was referred to as a stately church by esteemed Cornish historian Charles Henderson the early 1920’s. Originally built around 800 it was rebuilt in the 13th century with additional and alteration in the 15th century. The church retains some original Norman stonework and was highly thought of by Edmund H Sedding the early 20th century architect and author of Norman Architecture in Cornwall. The font is dated to the 13th century. Henderson comments that the church ‘is full of interest despite bad treatment’ but perhaps may have been rather harsh in his assessment. By 1864 the church had become somewhat dilapidated and a storm had caused the roof needing urgent repairs . The parishioners refused to accept a church rate increase for the repairs, fortunately the generosity of the Reverend Norris allowed repairs to take place. Some minor refurbishment was undertaken at the same time. The restoration work of 1904 was far more extensive and it is perhaps much this work that was condemned by Sir John Betjeman as stripping out the interior. However, the church has a pleasant, interesting interior and churchyard. It is well worth a visit whilst touring other local sites.
The 97-foot three stage tower is currently home to a peal of six bells of which four were noted in 1551. Historian and author E H W Dunkin recorded six bells in 1878 five dated 1789 and one 1845. Two of the earlier bells have more recently been redated to the 19th century. The bells have now become virtually unringable and following the gift of eight new bells from a redundant church in Renfrewshire an appeal has been launched which is well underway. The bells from the Church of St James in Paisley will be refurbished and the old bells from St Cleer melted down and recast to produce two new bells making a peal of ten. Although it seems sad to destroy historic bells the connection to the past remains in the recast and this is a process that has taken place in churches for centuries. Perhaps the four bells recorded in 1551 were recast at some point to produce those from the 18th century. The bells and fittings had been surveyed in 1893 by Harry Stokes of Woodbury and he recommended replacement of the oak frame and fittings, which he undertook in 1894.
St Cleer was a major settlement during the areas mineral boom during the mid to late 19th century. This was followed by a decline as that mining period failed. Today it is at the centre of a number of wonderful sites and places to visit, some of the less well-known are mentioned here. Car parking in this region of rural Cornwall is pretty good and an encouragement to Cornish residents wanting to see more of our beautiful and interesting nation.
Heritage Column
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Celtic Nation Kernow - Supporting & sharing Cornish heritage
