Ertach Kernow - Lewis Hind’s ‘Day’s in Cornwall’ during 1907
Day’s in Cornwall began because the internet was down this past Sunday morning, so it was off to the bookshelves to hunt out a topic for this week’s Ertach Kernow. How reliant too many of us are on technology, although I’m a great user and believer in technology when used for productive purposes. Fortunately I don’t rely entirely on ‘the cloud’ and keep local backups of huge amounts of information besides an extensive book collection. ‘Day’s in Cornwall’ by Charles Lewis Hind is one I’ve browsed and quoted from at times, but about the author I knew absolutely nothing.
Born in St Pancras London in 1862 Charles Lewis Hind became a journalist, author, art critic and historian as well as taking up the brush from time to time. His book on Cornwall is such a different subject from all his other extensive published works on authors, artists and other topics I thought of sharing snippets from it further. On researching him and the early reviews of the book it is clear that he was a highly considered author and that ‘Day’s in Cornwall’ was very well received, with excerpts from it included in Cornish newspapers. So, on that basis I have added him to the list of visitors to Cornwall whose travels Ertach Kernow follows. Although perhaps not as well-known as say Daniel Defoe whose travels through Cornwall in the 18thcentury are being followed, Lewis Hind is the first of perhaps more from the 20th century. These various travellers provide a view of changes in Cornwall from John Leland in the 16th to J M W Turner and Mrs Dinah Craik in the early and late 19th centuries.
It was likely his interest in the Newlyn School of artists that first brought him to Cornwall and he did visit a number of times. Prior to ‘Days in Cornwall’ being published in 1907 aged 45 he was renting two unfurnished rooms at 60 Leinster Square, London for 50 shillings a week. This was a substantial sum compared to other rentals in the same area so Lewis must have been successful in his publishing works. Lewis Hind travelled in Europe and the United States where he married Henrietta Richardson Hitchcock an American of similar age, in New York in November 1907.
As always click the images for larger view
Before beginning his tour he ruminated on previous visits to Cornwall, the people, places and sights seen. He wrote ‘Such is Cornwall I have allowed myself the luxury of these introductory fireside impressions before facing the business of this book, which is to see all Cornwall with my own eyes, and as often as may be, on my own legs. Also to delve into the books that have been written about the Delectable Duchy. I glance sideways from my chair and review their backs. Two shelves of a bookcase cannot contain them.’ His collection of books contained many which researchers still use today including, William Borlase, Henry Jenner, G C Boase and W P Courtney. His tour was to be split into six parts of which the first leg on arriving in Saltash was to follow the River Tamar to its source ending at Cornwall’s border with England on the north coast. This is just the start of that leg of the journey.
Setting off, his arrival in Cornwall was via the Royal Albert Bridge to Saltash railway station. Hind talks about Saltash and something of its history including people like Ann Glanville the legendary female gig rower, the early historic Esse family from which Saltash’s name derives and J M W Turners visit and paintings of Saltash in 1812, mentioning one of these paintings was now in the USA. On being advised that he was better to take a river journey rather than via the riverbank to his first stop at Landulph, Lewis walked down to the Tamar and engaged the services of a boatman. Hind’s description of the boatman read, ‘The boatman a typical Cornish mariner, the Celtic melancholy and the Celtic gleam in his eyes talked Tamar lore and gazed out over the infinite estuary’. The boatman took him to see the last of the horse-boats, albeit a rotting hulk. So what were horse-boats? Whilst people travelling on foot were often rowed across the river by a boatman, horses and cattle had been taken across by these so named horse-boats. These were built like catamarans to improve stability with two rowers and of course by the early 20th century had been replaced by steam powered ferries. Obviously there was still business for boatmen to row individuals across the river when perhaps the ferries weren’t running. When Lewis referred to the Tamar as a Devon River, the Cornish boatman was certainly not impressed and implied in his conversation that beyond the river lived foreigners, just as they in Devon in turn would consider him a foreigner.
Arriving on a lonely stretch of riverbank below the hamlet of Landulph Lewis made his way to the church. He describes the scene ‘I remember Landulph as a primitive hamlet with a large reposeful rectory, and a beautiful fifteenth-century church, lately restored and reseated. The old oak pews and carved bench-ends, which have been carefully preserved, lean against the wall, mute records of a past when village craftsmen wrought fine work.’ Lewis Hind visited shortly after restoration work had been completed in 1902 following the churches decline into very poor condition. The many things of interest in the church seen by him still remain today, including a plaque to the memory of Theodore Paleologus a descendent of the rulers of the Byzantine Empire which he was much fixated with. Hind tells us a hundred years previously the vault and coffin containing the body were opened revealing his remains including a long white beard. This church is now on my bucket list of places to visit in my Cornish travels.
Moving on, Hind reached the hamlet of Paynter’s Cross and a nearby smithy where he warmed himself and ‘talking with the rustics there gathered’. Now less than it was then it does contain the lodge and access to the nearby Pentille Castle home of the somewhat eccentric and much written about Sir James Tillie. This story is recounted in his book and was covered in the Ertach Kernow article number 73 in November 2021 found on the website. Leaving the forge Lewis made his way towards St Mellion meeting a pedlar on the way and being encouraged by him to part with cash for some items from his basket of goods. On arriving he drank strong tea with Cornish cream spread over a thick slice of bread. Reading that I recall an almost lost memory of my Dad giving us the same with honey on top, calling it thunder and lightning. The landlord suggested Lewis stop at an inn at St Dominic as he wouldn’t reach Calstock without a guide, so setting out he managed to lose himself on the moor. A friendly cottage owner pointed him the right direction and eventually reached the inn at 10:00 and was told by the landlady it was full. Feeling very sorry for himself he set off on the route through Cotehele Woods towards Calstock in the pouring rain regretting setting out on his tour in December. A kindly Cornish voice called out that he knew of a friend who could offer a bed for the night and Lewis walked with the agricultural labourer towards St Dominic where he was taken in.
On his walk he learned about the Tamar Valley fruit crops for which it was famous, with the best markets being in Newcastle. Who would have thought Newcastle? You often learn something new from old books. At his acquaintance’s small cottage he was made most welcome and feasted on tea, bread and butter and homemade jam, drying his clothes next to the kitchen fire. Although having to share a room with a sleeping and snoring local postman, who would rise at 4:00am, he was very pleased for a warm dry place to sleep. Leaving the following morning at 8:00am Lewis walked towards Cotehele arriving on the historic quay then making his way to Cotehele House which he describes as ‘the most perfectly preserved ancient house in England’, although some might argue with the mention of England in that quote. Of Cotehele he says, ‘to visit Cotehele high above the Tamar is to possess for evermore a picture of an ancient house that time and change have passed by.’
Leaving the house and passing through the woods he came across the chapel built by Sir Richard Edgcumbe in thanks for escaping pursuers sent to arrest him. More on this and Cotehele House can be read in article number 161 of July 2023 on the website. Coming to Calstock with its inns and lodging houses Lewis comments that it is ‘not a dream of loveliness‘ but was fortunate enough to meet a delightful old Calstock woman who offered the services of her son to guide him to Launceston. She recommended the low road as this would offer him more of a view of the River Tamar which he wanted to see as part of his tour. Sent up the hill by the woman to meet her son Lewis dallied to have a chat with an ‘intelligent youth’ who described what could be seen of the Tamar before he moved onwards to meet his guide outside Calstock Church.
Space has brought this leg to a close. In due course we will continue Lewis’ journey along the border and around Cornwall seeing some of the changes the past century has brought to our Cornish lands. Most changes will be seen in the development, some might say ruination, of our towns and villages but also the Cornish culture and people.
Heritage Column
